An Enchanting Onsen Getaway in the Forest

An enchanting forest resort nestled in the mountains around Hakone, the aptly named Hakone Retreat offers a tranquil and rejuvenating escape from the cacophony of urban life. A nature immersion getaway, it’s a place where time seems to pass more slowly as you lie back in a hot spring bath and listen to the harmonious symphony of chirping birds and rustling leaves.

Understated Luxury

This was my second stay at the idyllic resort. I’d previously lodged in one of the facility’s expansive villas, whereas this time around my stay was in the main Före (stylized as före) building. Though not as grand as the villas, the rooms are spacious and provide a home-like comfort. They’re designed with a sense of understated luxury to make you feel like you’re in a Nordic resort.

There are 37 rooms at Före, including a 109-meter-square suite with two bedrooms, a kitchen and a magnificent view of the volcanic valley Owakudani. I stayed in a deluxe double room which features a cozy living area separate from the sleeping quarters and a wood-burning stove that provides a calming ambiance (though it would have been more appreciated on a chillier night).

Shinrin-Yoku

After checking in at 3 p.m., I decided to go for a wander in the forest. The Japanese practice of shinrin-yoku — forest bathing — is said to provide several health benefits, such as reducing blood pressure and heart rate. It’s also a very pleasant way to spend an afternoon as you breathe in the clean, fragrant air.

After that gentle stroll, I spent some time at Free Bird (stylized as free bird), Hakone Retreat’s relaxation space, an ideal spot to do a bit of reading or, if absolutely necessary, catch up on some work. It features a mini-library, some games and, while I was there, a variety of kakigori shaved ice flavors to choose from, all free of charge. This service for guests changes depending on the season.

Woodside Dining

Dinner was served at Woodside Dining (stylized as woodside dining), an impressive eatery that’s known for its rustic wood-fired cuisine prepared in an open kitchen. Located in a half-dome building surrounded by greenery, it’s a place where you can feel the warmth of the forest as you eat. I enjoyed a sumptuous six-course menu that included grilled scallops, wood-fire cardinal fish and a grilled beef rib. For an additional fee, guests can also order from the freeflow drink’s menu.

The following morning, I headed back to Woodside Dining for breakfast. In addition to an extensive buffet and a wide selection of drinks, it also offers sandwiches, available by request. I opted for the signature BBLT (smoky bacon, burger, lettuce, tomato) on perfectly toasted bread from the wood-fired oven. For those who fancy something lighter, there’s a shop on-site selling beverages and small snacks.

Onsen and Wellness

Before breakfast, I had a soothing soak in the hotel’s sodium-chloride hot spring bath. The water, sourced from Sengokuhara onsen, is rich in metasilicic acid, which leaves one’s skin feeling smooth. It’s also said to help improve poor blood circulation, reduce fatigue and relieve muscle pain. It was the perfect way to start the day. Those staying in a villa can enjoy the same sodium-chloride water in their room.

To completely let go of any mental or physical fatigue, a visit to Könoha Spa is recommended. The 110-minute signature program combines a holistic aromatherapy massage with a basic facial. There are plenty of other options on the menu as well, including a hot stone massage and Oriental reflexology.

Picturesque Wooden Hideaways

In addition to the 37 rooms at Före, there are also 18 villas that blend in seamlessly with the landscape. These picturesque wooden hideaways are all equipped with private open-air (or semi-open-air) hot spring baths, kitchens, fireplaces and audio systems with Bluetooth, allowing for a soundtrack of your choosing as you enjoy a long soak in the large bath.

There are no televisions or clocks in any of the villas or rooms, as it’s meant to be a space free from distractions, where guests can truly unwind. Those staying in the villas can also enjoy a kaiseki course meal, featuring the freshest seasonal ingredients, at Hyoseki, a luxurious on-site Japanese restaurant, which was originally opened as a ryokan in 1914.

Sightseeing Nearby

In addition to its abundance of nature and hot spring baths, Hakone is, of course, also known for having a wide range of museums. One of the most impressive is the Hakone Venetian Glass Museum, which is less than five minutes on foot from the resort. An indoor and garden museum, it displays both modern and classical works in various forms, including vases, goblets, lamps and sculptures. The dazzling glass corridor — 16,000 drops of crystal glass on an arched flame — is particularly captivating.

There are other museums relatively nearby, too, such as the Pola Museum of Art — five minutes by taxi — which boasts a collection of around 10,000 works, including pieces by Monet, Picasso, and Foujita. For those looking to be a bit more active, there are various hiking routes just outside the hotel, such as the Sengoku-Hara Kojiri Nature Trail. Rental bicycles are available at the resort.