A Century of French Sophistication in Tokyo

Cherished by patrons for generations, Restaurant Prunier has been one of Tokyo’s most revered fine-dining establishments for over 90 years. Located in Tokyo Kaikan, a prestigious hospitality complex across from the Imperial Palace, it’s known for pairing the precision and technique of French cuisine with fresh Japanese ingredients.

After four years of renovations to the main building, Restaurant Prunier had its third-generation reopening in 2019, embracing the philosophy of “New Classics.” Perhaps the most significant addition is that of acclaimed chef Hiroyuki Matsumoto, who honed his skills in Michelin-starred restaurants in France. Over the last six years, he has continued to enhance his and the restaurant’s glowing reputations, crafting classic dishes that preserve the essence of French cuisine while also feeling distinctly modern and innovative.

The Enduring Legacy of Tokyo Kaikan and Restaurant Prunier

Before stepping into Restaurant Prunier, take a moment to appreciate Tokyo Kaikan, a place where history comes alive. Founded in 1922 as Japan’s first international social venue established through private investment, the building was initially designed as a venue where ordinary people could gather, containing banquet halls, bars and restaurants. Over the decades, it has hosted an imperial wedding reception, international conferences and royal visits — including a luncheon for Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip during her only state visit to Japan in 1975.

Tokyo Kaikan’s connection to France is equally historic. It has incorporated authentic French culinary techniques into its offerings for over 70 years, and for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, the French government temporarily established the restaurant Île de France there. Overseen by legendary chef Raymond Oliver, it gave local chefs invaluable exposure to authentic Parisian techniques.

Yet the building’s most enduring French legacy began in 1934 with the opening of Restaurant Prunier. Founded by Tokusaburo Tanaka — a chef trained at the original Prunier in Paris — the restaurant introduced Japan to classic French cuisine. This is a legacy that can still be felt today, one that Chef Matsumoto continues to push forward.

New Classics: The Culinary Philosophy at Restaurant Prunier

Like Chef Tanaka before him, Chef Matsumoto developed much of his culinary artistry in France. He headed out to the country of wine and gastronomy in 1994 at the age of 25, and remained there for six years, working at esteemed eateries such as La Côte d’Or before returning to Japan to serve as head chef at Les Anges and Restaurant Feu in Tokyo.

Matsumoto feels that his encounter with Prunier was not a coincidence, but something destined. He first heard about the place while working part-time at a Chinese restaurant during his high school days. He recalls being told, “When you think of French food in Tokyo, you think of Prunier at Tokyo Kaikan.” So when he was then offered the role of head chef six years ago, he felt it was fate, and immediately said yes.

Matsumoto was tasked with the role of contemporizing the menu while continuing to honor the restaurant’s roots. In line with the concept of “New Classics,” his dishes are subtle, intricate and multi-layered. They are also stunningly presented, featuring a range of vivid colors. He believes that the food should not only nourish the body, but also tell a story.

“It’s about adding my own chapter to this restaurant’s fascinating history, rather than just continuing with what has gone before,” says Matsumoto. “I search for ingredients in various places, as I feel more creative when I’m outside, surrounded by nature. Images of dishes often pop up in my mind. It could be when I’m fishing, diving in the ocean or going on a bike ride. I wouldn’t be able to come up with so much if I was always sitting at a desk.”

Matsumoto travels all over Japan, sourcing the highest quality seasonal ingredients to create modern French cuisine that displays a deep appreciation for Japanese terroir. The dishes highlight both the sophisticated techniques of French cooking and the precise, umami-rich ingredients and aesthetic of Japanese traditions. It comes as no surprise to hear that the restaurant earned a Michelin star in 2023, which it has held ever since.

Experiencing the Food

During a recent visit there, we had an opportunity to sample some of Matsumoto’s specials, starting with a Dover sole fillet plate stuffed with chanterelles and porcini mushrooms, topped with a Normandy sauce. A sweet and delicate fish with a meaty texture, it pairs wonderfully with the rich and silky condiment. It’s one of this autumn’s recommended dishes.

Another hugely popular plate among guests is the freshly cooked thick-cut kue, a premium fish from Japan, with eggplant caviar and a Hokkaido-produced salmon roe sauce. A luxurious dish with an interesting combination of ingredients, it is beautifully presented and tastes even better than it looks. The same could also be said of our final dish: cold pumpkin soup with foie gras and walnuts. The sweet and earthy flavors of pumpkin pair wonderfully with the rich and buttery notes of foie gras, offering both comfort and indulgence in one bowl. It is recommended to enjoy the soup with a glass of sweet white wine.

Inside the Menu at Restaurant Prunier

Both a la carte and set menus — which change seasonally — are available for guests, with prices ranging from ¥11,000 to ¥30,000 for the latter. A wine sommelier is also on hand should customers want to pair their food with some high-quality drinks. Visitors can expect immaculately presented dishes, exquisite service and an amazing view.

“One of the big appeals of Prunier is the landscape, which will never change because you can’t put up buildings in front of the Imperial Palace,” says Matsumoto. “Of course, Tokyo Kaikan itself is also very charming … As the main restaurant of this historic building, it is important that we create memorable experiences for visitors so that they keep coming back.”